Mid-Century Granulated Bow Motif Bracelet in 18K Gold, circa 1950s

A superb bracelet centered on a bold bow motif with two pierced fan-form cones flaring outward from a woven basket-textured central sphere, each cone framed by borders of applied gold beads and backed by triangular panels of fine openwork C-scroll filigree. The band tapers on either side into a ribbed coil.

Four distinct goldsmithing techniques appear in a single piece: granulation, pierced filigree, woven surface texture, and fluted coil work. The construction is fully dimensional, the fans projecting boldly from the wrist rather than lying flat, and every surface — including the reverse — is finished with equal care. Decorative work of this complexity, carried entirely by the goldsmithing itself without gemstones to support the design, is increasingly difficult to find.

The granulation, filigree, and woven detailing reflect the ornamental goldsmithing that flourished in Italian workshops through the 1950s and 1960s, when postwar makers turned from the machine-age forms of the preceding decade toward richer, more elaborate surface work.

At 56 grams of 18K yellow gold and a full 30 millimeters across at the bow, the bracelet has commanding presence on the wrist while the tapering coil band keeps it comfortable to wear. The compact 6.5-inch length suits a smaller wrist.