Fluted 18K Gold Diamond Earclips, Circa 1970s

A diamond-shaped silhouette built from quilted, fluted gold panels, each one rising to a rounded bead at its point so the surface reads as soft relief rather than a flat plate. The fluting runs in short radiating segments, catching light in bands rather than a single sheet, and gives the gold a plush, cushioned look characteristic of 1970s goldwork. At the center, a pavé diamond set into its own diamond-shaped frame breaks up the gold with a burst of white light, eighteen round brilliants arranged tightly enough to read as one continuous sparkle rather than individual stones. The bombé, high-relief treatment seen here was a signature of 1970s jewelry design, when goldsmiths moved toward sculptural, tactile surfaces in place of the flatter work of earlier decades. Clip backs, finished in platinum for durability at the hinge, keep the earring secure and sitting flush against the ear. The diamonds total approximately 1 ct., F-G color and VS-1 clarity, set in platinum and 18K yellow gold measuring 29 millimeters long and weighing 31 grams.