Retro Diamond Enhancer with Hematite Torsade, circa 1940s

A striking Retro necklace built on contrast. The circular enhancer measures 38 millimeters across in diameter and is worked in 14K yellow and rose gold with a raised ribbon-motif border, centered on a navette-shaped platinum panel pavé-set with 40 old European cut diamonds totaling 2 carats total with E-F color and VS1 clarity. The enhancer weighs 16 grams.

Old European cuts throw a softer, warmer fire than modern brilliants, and in colorless E-F they read especially bright against the darkness of the beads. The enhancer hangs from a sixteen-strand torsade of 2mm hematite beads, twisted into a substantial rope measuring 19 inches long and finished with a 14K yellow gold clasp.

The pairing is characteristic of the Retro period, when jewelers set precious stones against humble materials for deliberate effect — hematite's cool metallic grey against warm gold was a favored combination of the 1940s. The result is bold rather than delicate, meant to be seen while weighing a total of 111 grams.