Enamel Mosaic Bangle in 14K Gold by Martin, circa 1970s

A vivid 1970s hinged bangle, the domed gold surface set with a mosaic of irregular enamel panels in cobalt blue and emerald green, each cell outlined in raised gold and laid over a golden-yellow ground.

The effect is deliberately organic with no two panels alike, the shapes fitted together like stained glass or the markings of an animal skin. Vitreous enamel of this kind is fired at high temperature, one color at a time, into cells cut directly into the gold. It is unforgiving work and vulnerable to chipping across five decades of wear, which makes surviving pieces in this condition considerably harder to find than the gold alone would suggest. The colors here remain deep and unclouded throughout.

At 82.5 grams and 15 millimeters wide and 8 millimeters high on wrist when worn, the bangle sits high and rounded on the wrist with real weight behind it. Hinged with a concealed clasp, figure-eight safety catch, and safety chain. Signed Martin and stamped 14K.